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SOLAR POOL HEATER PLANS
Thanks to Tom H. Here is a web site for really inexpensive Poly Pipe
Thanks to Adam, here is another great pace for Poly Pipe
I've had this system in use by people all over the Pacific Northwest for the past 25 years,
and it works very well in our semi-sunny climate. First I will share with you how to make
use of plain black plastic and a trickle garden hose to preheat the water going to your
swimming pool. It's the initial heating that takes all the energy. Once you have a warm
water temperature, the rest is easy. On the South side of your house, or the side that gets
the most sunlight, spread as much black plastic, (one piece) from the top of the roof to
the bottom of your gutter. Be able to collect the water coming through the gutter close to
the pool. You can cut the bottom out of a Clorox jug, attach a hose piece at the small
opening and let the water drain from the gutter into the large cut out end and then run the
free heated water into the pool. You will need to plug one end of the gutter and make sure
that at least the strip of gutter you are using is clean. Secure the plastic with tacks or bricks
or something to hold it in place while you set a trickle water hose at the top, so when you turn
the water on low pressure, it will trickle down over the black plastic, getting very warm and
collecting in the gutter. And now draining into your empty pool and filling with free heated
water!! It would take about $250.00 worth of gas to heat a 18,000 gallon pool from 55
degrees to 78 degrees at today's prices. And that only gets you started.! You can also
make a passive solar heater out of your pool if it sits in the direct sunlight for any time.
1:00 PM is what we call solar noon in the summer. Any equal time before or after solar
noon is good for heating. 11:00 AM to 4:00 PM is great!.. With your pool in the sun
it is best to have a dark bottom to start with. I used to take black plastic and weigh
it down with clean smooth rocks to stay on the bottom. Not always an easy task I
might add, but well worth the trouble. With the dark on the bottom, and water in the
pool, place a clear, not black, but clear plastic sheet over the pool. Secure it so it stays
on. With the clear plastic the sun's rays will penetrate, going for the dark at the bottom
and will heat the water 3 or 4 degrees each day the sun is out. Keep the plastic on to
prevent evaporation and warmth leaking out. I know black plastic seem hot on top of
water, but only for an inch or less. Would you rather have a black umbrella over you at
noon on a 100 degree day, or clear plastic? You see. The clear plastic allows the heat
to enter while the black prevents going past it.
These suggestions will get you started and well on your way to free warm water.
THE SUNFREE SOLAR POOL HEATER
This design won a National Energy Contest
for it's simplicity and usefulness.
We will be building a control valve and laying poly-pipe,
and that's it.
BULLETIN !!!
Just so you know I've heard from several of my customers that have successfully built these heaters
a new product is available. Silver poly tarp, like the blue plastic tarps used to cover everything.
I've been told placing a silver tarp under the poly pipes gives better radiation for more heat.
Depending on the size of your pool, in ground, 30,000 gallons with 2" pipe
at the filter or 3,000 gallon above ground pool with 3/4 " fittings, will decide
on the amount of poly-pipe and the size of your control valve.
Purchase a double ended water turn off spigot, Iron or PVC and match up with PVC fittings.
This shows a 2 stage on each side of Steel valve,
you may need 1 or 2 extra stages on each side
depending on how much water you will be heating
THIS SHOWS A THREE STAGE WITH PVC ON OFF VALVE
"THE VALVE"
Build your Solar Heater accordingly on the amount of water needed
to be heated. First we want to assemble the "VALVE". This is the key
part of the system. It allows the water to flow through the pool filter pump
out into the Collector" and back into the pool without damaging the pump
because of the high pressure of pushing water through 900 or so feet of
poly pipe. The valve will have several output and input fittings. As little as
two each, and depending on the size of the pool and pump as many as
six on each side. One side of the "WATER TURN OFF SPIGOT" will be the
INTAKE and the other side will be the OUTPUT. The example we will be
using is a 3,000 gallon above ground inflatable top section and 3/4 inch
plumbing at the pump and filter. First we go to the store and purchase
supplies and parts, 1/2 or 3/4 inch poly pipe in 100, 300 or 500 foot rolls
will work. Just make certain that every length from the valve is the same.
My suggestion for this 3,000 gallon pool would be three sections or three
coils of 300 feet each, equaling 900 feet total. The photo shows the poly-pipe
coils flat on the ground and uncoiled so more of the sun's radiation will hit
and warm your water. Make sure that you don't kink the coils.
(It's not a bad idea to lay newspaper with black plastic over it to keep grass and
weeds growing through your new project. I make about a 10 foot diameter circle,
lay many layers of newspaper down, and then black plastic over the newspaper.)
I did after this photo was taken :)
To connect the 100 foot sections you can buy connectors that just slip into the ends
of the poly-pipe. You will need to purchase adaptors for the poly-pipe that glues
into the PVC pipe to complete your "VALVE". The "Heater Coils" can be placed
anywhere in your yard where the sun shines most of the day.
You can place it up to 100 feet away from the pool and bury the hoses
underground so everything is nice and neat. I just run a "slit" in the lawn and
push the pipe into it and then cover over and it looks great!!!
REMEMBER, one side goes out, placed on the ground, and then back to the
opposite side of "Valve". Repeat with second run of poly-pipe etc. etc.,
Depending on how large of a "Valve" you need.
Plug Pool line going into Filter (to keep water from running
all over the place.) and disconnect hose from "FILTER OUTPUT",
back into pool. Attach the "Just removed end" to the "INTAKE"
side of the "Valve" and use more of the pool filter hose to connect the
"OUTPUT" end to the "VALVE" and then back into the pool.
SEE "A". Use "Hose Clamps" for securing ends of "Valve"
Here is some help on supplys
To have lots of warm swimming water, Don't
run your filter at night.. The cold will cool your pool.
Only run the filter while you are solar heating.
Your pool will also gain heat on a lightly overcast day.
If your hand can feel warmpth on a dark object exposed to the sun,
or sun under light clouds your system will add heat.
Saves lots of energy.
Glue a Poly-pipe / PVC connector into a female 3/4" adapter to attach
a garden hose to fill each poly-pipe run with water instead of using
your pool pump to blow out the air. Plug the outgoing poly-pipe end
into the end and repeat with each run.
WHEN EVERYTHING IS INSTALLED AND YOU ARE READY
TO TEST THE SYSTEM. TURN THE POOL PUMP ON, CLOSE
THE "SPIGOT" AND WAIT FOR THE AIR BUBBLES FROM THE EMPTY
POLY-PIPE TO STOP COMING UP FROM THE WATER INTAKE OF YOUR
POOL (INSIDE THE POOL). THERE WON'T BE MUCH PRESSURE, BUT
AFTER THE BUBBLING STOPS, OPEN THE "SPIGOT" ENOUGH SO THE
FLOW BACK INTO THE POOL FEELS STRONG AGAIN, BUT THE "SPIGOT"
IS NOT COMPLETELY CLOSED. YOU SHOULD HAVE GOOD FLOW AND
WITH SUNSHINE THE WATER NOW COMING BACK INTO YOUR POOL WILL
BE WARMER THAN THE WATER GOING OUT TO BE HEATED.
These supplies are for three 300 foot runs of poly pipe
You can have as much as 900 to 1,000 ft. runs if you have more water to heat,
or live in a area where the sun dosen't shine as much as Western Washington
or if you plan on burying the pipe going to your pool pump.
The more pipe the better heating
9 ea. 100 ft. rolls Poly-pipe 1/2 or 3/4 inch diameter
6 ea. 1/2 or 3/4 inch Poly-pipe connectors
6 ea. 3/4 PVC “T” (A)
6 ea. Poly-pipe to PVC Adapters (B)
1 ea 2 ft. Section of 1” PVC pipe to be cut into 6 ea. 3” Couplers for fitting between
(A) 3/4” PVC “T” and 3/4” Male Nipple
Using Teflon plumbers tape wrap “male Nipple ends and tightly screw faucet handle.
Or use two 1” Couplers and glue to PVC VALVE
Before using PVC Cement glue test all pieces to insure proper fit.
(ANY QUESTIONS-GO BACK TO THE STORE AND ASK!)
NOW Glue all pieces of “Valve” together.
The photo shows the “Couplers” “Over” the outside,
but they will actually fit on the inside of the “T's” and Male Nipple.
For larger pool enlarge size and number of “T's”
The Poly-pipe rolls will increase in number but can remain the same size diameter
I had a 27,000 gallon pool and used a total of 2700 feet of poly pipe.
It was 3 900 runs of poly pipe. Worked very well.
You may be able to locate the poly pipe in 500 foot sections for less cost per foot
and then use either 500 foot or 1000 foot runs.
If you have any questions or concerns please let me know
Good water heating!!!
Cary
Now go to
For your free on line Energy Conservation Manual that could
save you 50% or more on your power bills
CONGRATULATIONS!!!
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